Oleander

Taking its name from Malta’s ‘national’ tree (its flowers are red and white like the flag), many of which decorate the large, attractive and open square in front of the church in Xaghra, this restaurant is the place to which locals, and weekending Maltese, flock- perhaps nostalgically to be reminded about how good their native cuisine used to taste. Not surprisingly, therefore, that this is the place for fenkata, the traditional two course meal that starts with spaghetti (or rice); another favourite main course is local lamb, when in season.

Dining is usually outdoors, on the busy square, in summer, and a cantilevered awning adds protection against both sunshine and unseasonal showers. In winter the attractively arched interior, refurbished and brightened up with glass doors providing extra light and a clear view of the square, is cosy and comfortable. The enthusiastic owner is a hospitable host, often regretting having to turn so many casual callers away (so booking is essential), but always happy to guide diners through his local Maltese menu.